Climbing Q/A - 8000m Peaks
Climbing Information
Q. Who can climb an 8000m mountain & who can obtain a climbing permit?
There is only one restriction for obtaining permits for 8000m peaks, the government of Nepal does not allow climbing permits to be issued to a climber who is below the age of 16. Beyond that restriction any climber with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt an 8,000 meter mountain in the Himalaya. However, our policy for accepting clients on these peaks require that the client has previous experience on 6,000 to 7,000 meter peaks, as well as general skills and knowledge with ice/rock climbing, experience and knowledge of how to ascend/descend on fixed lines and the proper use of ice axes and crampons. Attempting these peaks also requires a very high level of physical fitness and good health. Although we do not have any specific restrictions in place about our client’s physical fitness level, it is in your best interest to take the matter of your physical fitness very seriously. This puts your group members, Sherpa and yourself in a safer situation.
Q. Why should I visit Nepal for an 8000M expedition?
For those seeking the experience of climbing an 8000m peak, Nepal should be at the top of your list of countries to visit. With the rich variety of flora and fauna, the everlasting smiles of the rural Nepalese, the hospitality of the village communities, the favorable climatic and geographical conditions, the cultural and linguistic diversity and the rich cultural spirit which represents a unique blend of Buddhism and Hinduism Nepal is the adventure capital of the world. With 1400 trekking peaks above 6000m and 8 of the 14 8000m peaks in the world it is fair to say that your mountaineering ambitions can be taken to a new level here in Nepal. Will never start and complete without having Himalayan peak experience.
Q. How to Choosing a experience Provider, Why climb with Asian Adventures?
It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000 meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000 meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year. It is very important that the climbers who choose Asian Adventures for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Asian Adventures runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful on the world’s highest mountain.
Q. Is this adventure suitable for me?
Climbing an 8,000 meter peak is a serious physiological and physical undertaking. The steep snow climbing and ice-climbing that can be required entices craftsman to test, hone and develop their skills. If you are considering climbing an 8000m peak there are several questions that you need to ask yourself and be truthful about your findings. Am I physically fit enough? Am i technically capable of handling the expected terrain? Am I mentally capable of the hardship associated with high altitude expeditions? Asian recommends that if your considering to climb Mt. Everest that you have a high level of physical endurance and previous experience on 6000m or 7000m peaks. We would also like to see that you have climbed an 8000m peak prior to attempting Mt. Everest. For this we recommend: Cho Oyu, Shishapangma and Manaslu. The Himalaya demands truth, be truthful to yourself, your climbing partners and the agency your working with because at some point your life will be held by someone else’s awareness and skill.
Q. What is an 8000m mountaineering expedition?
An 8000 meter expedition refers to an expedition to one of the 14 tallest peaks in the world, which are all above 8,000 meters in altitude. Ten of these mountains are located in the Himalaya Range of Nepal. Asian Adventure operates 8,000 meter expeditions in both the spring and autumn climbing seasons to all of these 8 peaks in Nepal. Climbing periods for these 8000 meter mountains range in duration from 40 to 65 days, this time includes your arrival and departure from Kathmandu. These 8000 meter mountains range in height from 8,091meters to 8,848 meters. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from the Department of Tourism in Nepal, The Tibet Mountaineering Association in Tibet and Ministry of Tourism in Pakistan.
Q. Who is the team leader, my personal climbing Sherpa guide and what is the experience?
Our climbing Sherpa guides are experienced and highly qualified. Most were born in high altitude regions and have spent much of their lives above 4,000 meters. We provide extensive training to our guides in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Wilderness First Aid. These guides are all certified mountain guides via the Nepal Mountaineering Association and generally have three former summits of the 8,000 meter peak that they are guiding. Our high altitude Sherpa climbing guides have many years of experience and are qualified through training with TAAN and NATHAM. They are highly skilled in all aspects of mountaineering in Nepal and hold a Nepal Government License, Mountaineering Association Accreditation and Summit Certificates for Nepal Himalayan peaks. All of these government licenses are displayed in our office.
Q. What is Asian Adventure’s physical fitness criteria to climb an 8000m peak?
To climb an 8000m peak your physical fitness is very important, excellent physical fitness is required. Not only for the opportunity to succeed, but for your overall safety and enjoyment Our guides like to tell clients, “Be in the best shape of your life”.
Q. Is there any age limit for 8000m expedition?
Persons below 16 years of age are restricted from climbing 8,000 meter peaks in the Himalaya of Nepal. Tibet does not allow any persons under the age of 18 years old to climb an 8,000 meter peak. This was a recent change in Nepal but the Tibet mountaineering association had limited access due to age for 75 years in the Everest north region.
Q. What are the details on food and meals?
On popular trekking trails we utilize lodges/guest houses (aka teahouses) the meals will be provided by these lodges. Menu meals are often available including soups, noodles, rice, and dishes. On certain 8,000 meter trekking routes, lodges and guest houses may be limited, or not available. In these instances, accommodations will be via tents and the meals will be provided by our staff. In these instances meals will be prepared on the route with canister stoves or natural fires. While in base camp our expedition cooks will prepare meals. Above base camp the meals will be provided by our climbing Sherpa. Above base camp we always supply high altitude food that meets our clients requirements.
Q. Is there any communication system while we are trekking and climbing?
Communication will vary greatly depending on the location. Most trekking routes have local VHF phones and increasingly more places get mobile coverage from a variety of carriers. We recommend upon arriving picking up a CDMA pre paid card and insert that into your mobile device. In remote areas, communication is generally not available, or on a very limited basis. Some other and more costly options include the use of a Satellite phone. We like to use Delorme. We will always supply a phone that is available upon the clients request during trekking and mountaineering expeditions.
Q. Who will lead me approach to base camp and during the climbing period?
A licensed, trained and experienced climbing Sherpa Guide will lead all expeditions on 8,000 meter peaks above base camp. On the approach to base camp our teams may be lead by a licensed Sirdar or professional mountaineering/trekking guide.
Q. Will someone pick me up from the airport?
Yes. Asian Adventure representative will be waiting for you at the airport with your placard. Clients will need to collect their luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. The Kathmandu International terminal is very small and once you exit the airport terminal, you should see our representative holding a placard with your name. We will then transfer you to the hotel. We monitor all client flights, so if your flight is delayed, we will adjust your pick-up time and be waiting for you as per the schedule.
Q. Do I require travel insurance?
Yes. All trekkers and climbers are required to purchase adequate travel insurance, which includes a helicopter emergency evacuation plan. Insurance is not expensive compared to the cost of an evacuation during an expedition. Without having travel insurance during your trek or climb you will be financially responsible for all the costs of your evacuation and treatment. These bills can be tens of thousands of dollars.
Q. Where can I obtain travel insurance? What types of Insurance should I have?
You need to obtain your travel insurance policy before you depart your home. Your insurance should cover high altitude mountaineering, mountain rescue and helicopter transport to a medical facility. These types of policies are readily available through many travel agents and/or our affiliates. Before purchasing a package make sure that the policy covers helicopter evacuation from remote mountain locations, make sure that they will pick you up in a fully equipment medical transport helicopter. Also, be aware of the specifications of what the agency classify’s an emergency to be. For instance, if you brake your toe chances are they are not sending the helicopter for you. Most companies say that their grounds for picking up clients is determined by whether or not the client would be admitted into the hospital from the illness they have. We recommend the company Global Rescue. Do some research because not all insurance companies respond to emergency situations in a timely manner.
Q. How much time is generally required for an 8000m Expedition?
Time requirements vary for different peaks and the variety of weather conditions. Generally most of the 8,000 meter peaks require 25-30 days to summit once getting to base camp. This time can also vary depending on the approach, mountain location and elevation. Normally it takes 40-65 days depending on the mountain’s height and its vicinity to a major city.
Q. What types of problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties like Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is generally manageable by trekking at an appropriate pace, proper acclimatization and proper diet and hydration. AMS is the beginning stages of any and all other mountain related illness, the symptoms include headache, lethargic, nausea and vomiting and other general flu like symptoms. AMS can further develop into Cerebral Adema which is a serious illness caused by swelling of the brain. Pulmonary Edema is a fluid build up in the lungs and is also very serious. Both Cerebral Adema and Pulmonary Adema are can lead to death. Sunburn can also be a serious issue at altitude. The use of sunscreen and appropriate clothing is important to protect against UV rays. Snow blindness is also a serious condition and is caused by extended exposure to the sun’s rays throughout the day. This mainly occurs in glaciated terrain. For this we recommend sunglasses that have category 4 lenses.
Q. What is included in the adventure expedition?
On our website please click on COST INCLUDED, table where you will find a list of everything that is included on your expedition. If you have any questions, please contact Asian Adventures at [email protected]
Q. Who will carry climbing equipment above base camp? Do I have to carry my own gear?
Most of the 8,000 meter expedition equipment including food, climbing/personal gear will be delivered by jeep, truck and flight. After that we will use yaks, porters, or mules to reach base camp or advanced base camp. With full board service, porters will also assist in carrying the clients gear to the higher camps. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide (1:1 ratio). This personal climbing Sherpa guide will take your gear as well as camping gear and food to camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (as requested), setup your tent and prepare your high altitude food. If you share climbing Sherpa service you will be expected to contribute by carrying light loads to the high camps. If you use base camp logistic service only, then you have to carry your food, equipment, tents, and climbing gear on your own.
Q. Which is the best season and month for an 8000m expedition?
Spring and autumn are the best seasons for climbing in Nepal. More specifically September-October and April-May are great months. The season for climbing 8,000 meter peaks in Pakistan run from June through August.
Q. Do I need to join a group or can I climb solo?
There is no legal requirement to join a climbing group to climb an 8,000 meter peak, but if climbing in Tibet, the Tibet Mountaineering Association requires a minimum of two persons to issue the climbing permit. With that being said climbing solo is generally more expensive and much less safe. We highly recommend hiring a reputable guide service for a safe and secure summit opportunity.